![]() ![]() I will say the digital light is pretty bad ass, the strobe is much brighter then the old Sunpro light and the digital action makes it idiot proof to add a degree or two with great accuracy. So for me, I consider two timing lights that are reading IDENTICAL to be pretty accurate, eventhough neither one I am supposed to be using due to their dial back feature and the MSD interference. I came home tested both at idle, 1500 rpms and at 3000 rpms(since MSDs are supposed to only fire single sparks after 3000).īoth lights read IDENTICAL at all engine speeds and degrees.Both light lights had about the same about of reading fluctionation at idle(I attribute this to the MSD multiple sparks but this was minimal) at 1500 rpms, both lights were reading the same smoothness at "0"(using the dial back set at 33*) and at 3000rpms, the line was rock steady at "0". My balancer is already degreed so I figured the standard style light would be easy to test against the dial back method but.since I couldnt find the non dial back light, I will just have to hope the dial back method is accurate. He built the circuit and came up with his own pickup design. Here's a video of a version of the timing light built by Doug, youtube channel The capacitor on the pickup coil makes it work way better. I think it has something to do with just a stray capacitance between the coilĪnd the sparkplug wire, for some reason, halfway making a resonant circuit with On the end of a single wire can't transfer a current. technically a good sparkplug wire will not Now, some of you who are more familiar with electronics may be confused by the If you want to laugh at my old schematic. The schematic can be found here, LED timing light schematic ![]() Light is still functional with improper gate bias), to a certain extent of course. I used red and blue because the blue LED lights at a higher bias voltage (so that the ![]() I reccomend using clear LED's because of their "projection" properties. You can use however many LED's you want, but you need (1) more 330 ohm for every LED you use besides the first (2) which are included in the parts list. You will also need a few feet of wire for the pickup and some 2 conductor wire for power and lights. (1) 1N4001 diode (1) 5-20 volt tranzorb OR power zener. 01 uF capacitor at 50 to 100v (1) 10 ohm resistor (1) 1K ohm resistor (1) 100K ohm resistor (1) piece of perfboard or breadboard (1) clamp shut ferrite bead The design is based around the 2N7000 power mosfet (my favorite) and only has 5 resistors 1 capacitor and 2 diodes. The great thing about this design is that you can use any parts thatĬlosely resemble the ones I used. In this application, we are able to run our LED's way over continous current ratings, as well as the power MOSFET. I started with the sensing circuit which would convieniently drive about 200 mA worth of LED's. LED's and use it? Of course the reason that they use xenon strobes instead of light bulbs is because light bulbs glow down when you shut them off, a property that Why couldn't I just let that drive a few bright I remembered one time I made an inductive ignition pickup for a tachometer on a go-kart. I'm in a situation where most people would go out to Harbor Freight and Problem: Need to adjust timing on '68 Pontiac Tempest, I don't have a timing light. Make An LED Timing Light From Parts You Probably Already Have Need a timing light but don't want to spend $100+? Make An LED Timing Light Make An LED Timing Light ![]()
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